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The black Nile: one man's amazing journey through peace and by Dan Morrison

By Dan Morrison

A marvelous modern day experience alongside the Nile River from Lake Victoria to the Mediterranean Sea With information of tenuous peace in Sudan, overseas correspondent Dan Morrison obtained a plank-board boat, summoned a early life good friend who'd by no means been off American soil and set out from Uganda, paddling the White Nile on a quest to arrive Cairo-a journey that tyranny and struggle had made very unlikely for many years. Morrison's chronicle is a mashup of trip narrative and reportage, jam-packed with flights into the frightful and the absurd. via river dust that engulfs him and burning marshlands that darken the sky, he tracks the snarl of commonalities and conflicts that bleed around the Nile valley, bringing to lifestyles the waters that attach the hardscrabble fishing villages of Lake Victoria to the floating Cairo nightclubs the place headscarved moms are entertained by way of gyrating male dancers. In among are areas and lives invisible to cable information and opinion blogs: a hidden oil warfare that has erased complete cities, mystery dams that might flood nonetheless extra and contested borderlands the place acts of compassion and ingenuity defy appalling worry and waste of existence. As Morrison dodges each conceivable risk, from defense force gunfire to squalls of sand, his mishaps spread in unusual concord with the breathtaking diversity of people he meets alongside the way in which. Relaying the voices of Sudanese freedom warring parties and escaped Ugandan intercourse slaves, barren region tribesmen and Egyptian tomb raiders, The Black Nile culminates in a visceral realizing of 1 of the world's such a lot elusive hotspots, the place thousands try to claw their manner from struggle and poverty to anything better-if merely they can agree what that anything is, whom to proportion it with, and the way to get there. With the propulsive strength of a mystery, The Black Nile is rife with humor, humanity and fervid insight-an exceptional portrait of a posh territory in profound transition.

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Extra info for The black Nile: one man's amazing journey through peace and war on the world's longest river

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I lost this doing exactly what you’re doing, just like that,” he told the man. “This one too,” he said, pointing to the gold. ” I laughed over the engine’s drone. ” We rolled across the equator under skies that I can only color September 11 blue, and the spirit remained happy even as I grew stiff from avoiding the hubcap-sized rolls lying at my feet. My left foot shared a toehold with the penetrator on a car battery. My right leg was tucked under the crossbeam and planted on a bag of ice. The group to the left was gathered around two Nokia mobile phones, each apparently equipped with an FM tuner, listening to the Arsenal match being called in Luganda.

His brow bundled into confusion, hurt even. ” “It’s just something I’ve got to do. ” After years as a freelance reporter, I was tired of struggling for crumbs of piecework from a fast-shrinking roster of newspapers and magazines. The hustle made me feel small. I needed to do something big, something unrelated to the American news cycle, something deep and wide and untrammeled. The Nile beckoned—not the Nile of the six-day Egyptian package tour, with its unctuous guides and sunburned Germans, but the African Nile, the one nobody hears about, the river born of giant equatorial lakes and massive continental rains a lifetime away from Cairo, a region poised unsteadily between peace and war, where decades of conflict may at last have run their course.

It would take at least a week (and, after some cost overruns, about three hundred dollars) to build. Time enough to address a problem bigger than a boat: how to get into Sudan. We returned to Kampala on a series of minibus taxis and the next day visited the Sudanese embassy to check on my visa application and to submit one for Schon. ” Schon whispered as we filled in his paperwork. Sudan’s government had no love for Western visitors. Still, I hoped Schon might fly under their radar and be allowed in.

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