By Tom Anderson
"The right-hand aspect at Jeffreys Bay is likely one of the browsing world's most enjoyable unearths, and from the age of twelve it have been my life's function to surf there." J-Bay, South Africa, has the delusion, the just about legendary waves each surfer desires of driving as soon as of their lifetime. yet Tom would not cross until eventually he used to be prepared. He might hunt down surf-spots from the virgin reef-breaks of the Outer Orkneys to the temple point-breaks of Indonesia, from the attractive shores of France to the wilds of Sri Lanka, on his quest to experience the waves of his desires. Get at the street, get stoked, and get within the water.
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Extra info for Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave
Sample text
The barman was French, though the waitresses were local. You could still make out what they were saying quite clearly, however, despite the noise being made by the musicians and the rowdy clientele. Their accents were much softer, and the grand height of the room was allowing background noise to rise safely into the rafters, like it might in a large church. The music and chatter was never too loud. We could have easily stayed in there all night, but our recent pub-going experiences had made us all start wanting something a little more intimate.
Entry into the water at Thurso East was incredibly easy. You just had to jump off a slab of slate into calm, deep water and then paddle sideways. It was actually possible to take off on your first wave with your hair still dry. For me, as for many others, such factors contribute no end to the suitability of a surf spot – without the hassle of duckdiving walls of whitewater you could just concentrate on 50 NO RTH E RN SCOTLAND wave-riding, conserving all your energy towards catching as many as possible.
Neither of us had the slightest bit of desire to go in. ‘I’ll tell you the maddest thing,’ Darrel said. ‘He’s right, Ed. ’ ‘Well,’ he said, a gluttonous grin appearing on his face. ‘I say let them. God speed to them. ’ 56 3. France and Spain (Part I): Crossing the Wastelands and Surviving the Circus N aturally, we weren’t fooling anyone, and while promises were made to return to Scotland, it was only a matter of time before we’d each end up back in France. After all, France is a place you can’t ignore for long, excellent for cutting your teeth, getting used to heavier surf, or for just playing around and soaking up the essence of surf culture.