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Paddle to the Amazon by Don Starkell

By Don Starkell

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Dana and Gabby took the bow gunwales and I took the stern. It was the first time we'd come off heavy seas without swamping. Our launchings, too, are improving, though Dana still takes an awful pounding in the bow as the shore breakers wash over him. He puts his head down for the plunge, like a football fullback driving into the line, but the waves straighten him right up and leave him gasping. The open water, too, has given us some dicey moments. An occasional wave from the east is so threatening that we have to swing the canoe directly out to sea, to keep from being tipped.

The Mexican climate is perfect for his asthma; it's been two months since he had any trouble. NOVEMBER 2: Veracruz, Mexico I'm sad to report that Jeff's departure has become inevitable. This evening as we sat on our beds, he told me frankly that he felt he was wasting his time here. He sees no way that we can go back on 42 chapter five the Gulf without disaster. "It's just too crazy out there. " he said. As hard as it was for me to admit it, I knew in my heart that he was right — it is crazy out there; it may well be suicidal; it's certainly no place for a canoe.

52 chapter six They sent down two ropes and we looped them around the canoe, in an attempt to winch it onto the deck. But as the lines tightened, I could see the canoe beginning to buckle, and realized it was far too heavy. Again, I started hollering, and didn't stop until the lines had been slackened. Eventually we removed the canoe cover and persuaded them to winch up our equipment one piece at a time. I lalt an hour later, we were sitting on a wharf in the heart of Alvarado. We'd lost a good deal of loose equipment.

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