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Langosta, a variety of lobster, is seen ev erywhere—it’s a tr eat but terribly expensiv e. G ourmets relish their seawater taste; others find them tasteless. Rape (pr onounced “ rah-peh”) is the Spanish name for monkfish, a sw eet, wide-boned ocean fish with a scalloplike texture. Also tr y a fe w doz en half-inch baby eels. They r ely heavily on oliv e oil and garlic for their flav or, but they taste great. Squid cooked in its o wn ink is suggested only to those who want to go native. Char coal-broiled sar dines, ho wever, ar e a culinar y delight—a par ticular treat in the B asque pr ovinces.

EGGS These ar e ser ved in countless ways. A Spanish omelet, a tortilla española, is made with potatoes and usually onions. A simple omelet is called a tortilla francesa. A tor tilla por tuguesa is similar to the American Spanish omelet. FISH Spain’s fish dishes tend to be outstanding and v ary from province to pr ovince. One of the most common varieties is merluza (sweet white hake). Langosta, a variety of lobster, is seen ev erywhere—it’s a tr eat but terribly expensiv e. G ourmets relish their seawater taste; others find them tasteless.

Late O ctober to late November. D ECEMBER Día de los S antos Inocentes. Another countrywide holiday. O n this day , the Spanish play many practical jokes and, in general, do loco things to one another—it’s the S panish equivalent of April Fools’ Day. December 28. S. and other o verseas countries arriv e at M adrid’s international airpor t, Barajas, which lies 15km (9 miles) east of the center. It’s usually best to allow half an hour to get fr om the center to the airpor t. For flight information, ring & 90-235-35-70.