By Harold Payson
Simply equipped boats for amateurs. comprises 3 stitch-and-glue designs-a procedure that enables the plywood seams to be "taped" including fiberglass and resin rather than steel fastenings-and 3 traditional designs outfitted and not using a jig.
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For your own safety, use regular cleansers to wash resin off your hands, not acetone or lacquer thinners, both of which can be injurious to your health. And I urge you to wear a dust mask to prevent inhaling glass particles and goggles to keep them out of your eyes. This is one crash course in fiberglassing plywood, but it's more knowledge than I started with, and I've never had any real trouble. It helps to experiment on scrap before you undertake any major effort, and it can ease the process immensely if you have a friend with some experience who will give you a helping hand.
To develop the shape of the side panel, measure in from the edge of the sheet at each interval, and drive in one of those II4·inch number IS-wire nails. ) When you've driven in a full set, takea flexible wooden batten about ~ inch thick by I inch wide that is long enough to continue a fair curve beyond the actual ends of the panel, set it on the flat, and bend it edgewise around the curve, securing it with small nails as necessary. Sight the curve for fairness. If you see flat spotS or bumps, check your plans, check your measurements, and check your batten.
I've mentioned only one layer of tape on the inside, because that single layer along with two on the outside passed my laboratory strength test with flying colors: When I drove the rear wheel of my pickup over a sample joint, the plywood broke clean across leaving the taped joint itself intact. But it's true that the plans show two layers of tape along each seam on the inside, and I can't argue that two layers wouldn't be stronger. So double up on the tape if you like, but only on the inside seams.